I'm Addicted, What Can I Say?

I felt quite ashamed that I've lived in Hawaii for nearly 6 years and I've never once learned to surf. Intimidation? Feeling of inadequecy? Yea, maybe a little bit. I'm quite the body surfer and boogie boarding though. It would be nice to get Nancy out there, but she's not really a strong swimmer, so it's okay I guess.

I first tried about a year ago to surf when my cousins from Germany were here visiting and staying in a beach house in Kailua. I met some local surfers in the water and I just said, "Hey bro, I heard it's pretty hard surfin'." To which he responded, "Aww cuz, you like try? I got choke boards, I go get 'em" He was the coolest dude. I thought it was nice that a total stranger that I never met could be so generous to such a rookie. To those of you who don't know, surfers can be a bit crazy in a sense and are pretty protective of their boards. As they should be. Well, I seriously almost killed myself. I can't even count the numerous times I was pounded in the waves and ate the sand. I got busted up and my side got rubbed raw and started bleeding from all of the wax. It sucked. I could have been fish food. I ended this surf session never standing once.

Now, a little more than one year later, needless to say, surfing has become my latest addiction. Is there rehabilitation meetings for these sort of things? I should probably go. I suck royally, but it's pretty sweet riding on some waves. I've only surfed a few times with some buddies of mine bright and early during feeding time for the local sharks at 530am. First time I went, it was low tide and let's just say I took A LOT FOR THE TEAM! I got so cut up on the reef. It didn't feel too good. I was totally exhausted in like 1 1/2 hours. My last adventure....I rolled with an 11 foot board, cause that's what I do. I cut through the water like Moses on that thing. I felt like I was on yacht-I totally could have had a BBQ it was so huge. I still sucked at standing up, but I got to catch a few waves, while on the other hand, the rest of the guys rode like every single one as I watched in total jealousy. It was a great day to surf. Not once did I hit a reef and I'm gargantuan in the water so I felt good. But, my buddy Troy nearly took my face off with his board when I got slammed by some white wash. Had I not blocked his board with mine, my face would've gotten blasted. His board barely nicked mine but I got two cuts on my hand from trying to block it. Once I saw blood, that was a wrap for me. I didn't wanna be fish food. Plus, in just a small area where we were surfing came a whole bunch of inexperienced tourists who just didn't know what they were doing so I felt nervous being out there.

So, every chance I get, I try and go. I got a nice support system of buddies who help me learn and being the competitive guy I am, they help me stay confident in getting better. I don't know where we'll end up after I graduate, but leaving paradise and the waves isn't the best of feelings. Not just myself, but Nancy too, have made some wonderful friends. I've grown quite attached to this place. Yea, I know right, tear. However, It's seriously gonna be great next semester because all my classes are late in the afternoon. I usually play basketball bright and early at 5am, but I think I'll be surfin' instead. I'm looking forward to my next surf session.....tomorrow!